Street Photography in Naples

Spaccanapoli is the long, straight street that cuts through the historic center, made up of Via Benedetto Croce and Via San Biagio dei Librai. The Walking Photographer describes artisan shops, cafés and locals going about their daily lives in a lively, sometimes chaotic mix. Morning brings deliveries and people at espresso bars. Shoot along the street to stack walkers, scooters and signs into layers. Doorways and shop fronts on either side give you frames. Scooters come through fast, so keep to the edge and keep your strap on.

The Spanish Quarter is a steep grid of narrow alleys above Via Toledo, built in the 16th century for Spanish soldiers. You get laundry lines, street shrines, tiny workshops and people sitting outside their ground floor homes. May Pham loved the laundry lined alleys and the soft light shining through them. Look up an alley from its lower end so the lines cut the frame. Street Photography Berlin notes it is easy to get in contact with residents here if you want portraits. Many people live at street level, so never shoot into open homes.

This small square in the Quartieri Spagnoli holds the giant Maradona mural and a shrine to the footballer, who led Napoli to its first league titles. It is now one of the busiest spots in the quarter, with fans, souvenir stalls and tour groups. The Humanist Approach notes how much Maradona still means to the city's pride. Go early for a quieter scene, or late afternoon for crowds. Shoot the people looking at the mural rather than the mural itself. Tight space, so watch your bag.

Via Toledo is the main shopping street, running from Piazza Dante down toward Piazza del Plebiscito. The Walking Photographer calls it always teeming with life, from street vendors to stylish locals. The long pedestrian stretch is ideal for walking with the crowd and picking faces. Late afternoon, when people come out for the evening walk, is busiest. Stand at the mouth of an alley from the Quartieri Spagnoli and shoot out onto the bright street for contrast. Pickpockets work the crowds.

San Gregorio Armeno is a narrow street in the old center lined with workshops that make figures for nativity scenes, open all year. The Walking Photographer says it feels almost frozen in time. Artisans paint figures in doorways, and customers squeeze between the stalls. In November and December it is packed shoulder to shoulder. Come early in the day to photograph artisans at work, and ask before close shots of someone's hands and figures. In high season, keep your camera close to your body.

The Sanità is a working class neighborhood just north of the old center, and Street Photography Berlin calls it typically Neapolitan, with lots of small street markets. It has baroque churches, the Palazzo San Felice staircase and, nearby, the Fontanelle cemetery, a cave full of skulls. It sees fewer visitors than the center, so people notice a camera. Come in the morning when the markets are busy, and work slowly. I'd go with a local guide the first time, or keep to the main streets, and be friendly.

This is one of the largest squares in Italy, car free, with the Royal Palace on one side and a curved colonnade in front of the Basilica of San Francesco di Paola. May Pham calls it one of her favorite places to shoot, with locals hanging out and kids playing football. Street Photography Berlin suggests playing modern people against old architecture. Use the columns as a repeating frame and wait for a single figure. Late afternoon gives long shadows across the square. Midday is hot and bright.

The seafront walk along Via Partenope runs to the Castel dell'Ovo, a castle on a small island joined by a causeway, with Vesuvius across the bay. In summer, people swim and sunbathe on the rocks. In the evening, families and couples stroll the promenade. Shoot swimmers and strollers against the bay in late light, or silhouettes at sunset. The castle walls make a strong backdrop for passing figures. Be discreet around sunbathers, and do not photograph children in swimwear.