Street Photography in Budapest

Walker calls this square his favorite street photography spot in Budapest. You get the Great Market Hall, the end of Váci utca, the university, a busy tram stop and the river, all within a few steps. Inside the hall, light from the roof falls in patches on the stalls and shoppers. Go on a weekday morning for locals buying food. The hall is closed on Sundays. Outside, stand by the tram stop and wait for a yellow tram to frame people waiting on the platform. Watch your bag in the crowded aisles.

Liberty Bridge is the short green bridge next to the market hall, and Walker's favorite in the city for its color and Art Nouveau ironwork. Trams cross it every few minutes. Secchi photographed a tram crossing after rain, with the wet rails pulling the eye toward Buda. On foggy days, Walker suggests heading straight for the bridges. Stand at the Pest end and shoot along the walkway so the girders repeat into the fog, then wait for one walker. Traffic is close, so stay on the footpath.

Váci utca is the main pedestrian shopping street, around a mile long from Vörösmarty tér to the market hall. It is tourist central, with shops and restaurants aimed at visitors. It is still good for people watching, and Secchi mentions street performers here. The southern half, past the Elizabeth Bridge road, is quieter and more local. From mid November into January, the Christmas fair on Vörösmarty tér draws big crowds under warm stall lights. Use shop windows for reflections. Expect touts outside restaurants.

Deák Ferenc tér is the main metro junction in the center, where three metro lines meet. It is one of the most common meeting points in Budapest, lively from morning to late at night. Next to it, Erzsébet tér is a park where students and young people sit on the grass and steps. I'd start a day of shooting here, because it is central and always busy. Stand near the metro exits for commuters coming up the stairs into the light. In the park, shoot low and wide around groups.

The Jewish Quarter in District VII held the World War II ghetto and has the Dohány Street Synagogue, the largest in Europe. Walker describes a contrast of crumbling buildings and new apartments, narrow streets and a young crowd. Kazinczy utca has Szimpla Kert, the best known ruin bar, in an old building full of rooms. By day, look into open courtyards and at worn facades with a single passerby. After dark, the streets fill with bar crowds. Raise your ISO and use bar light. Be respectful near synagogues and memorials.

Castle Hill on the Buda side has the Royal Palace, Fisherman's Bastion, medieval houses and crooked streets that follow the hill. It is the most touristy area in the city, but Walker says it is still worth a visit for street work. Secchi suggests early morning and late afternoon for long shadows. The white turrets and arches of the Bastion make frames for people looking out over the river. Go early to avoid tour groups. The Bastion's upper terraces may charge an entry fee in the day, so check before you go.

The river walk on the Pest side runs past the Parliament and the Chain Bridge, with trams running along the embankment. Walker found plenty of good street photography on the river walk. Secchi suggests looking for small moments here, such as an old couple walking along the Danube. In fog, walkers fade into the river and bridges. The Shoes on the Danube memorial honors Jews shot here in 1944 and 1945. Photograph it with respect, and do not pose people on it. Some stretches feel rough late at night.

Heroes' Square is a huge open square with statues of Hungarian leaders, at the end of Andrássy út. It is busy day and night, and Walker suggests visiting more than once to see the change. Next door, City Park is the largest park in Budapest, with a lake, benches, a castle replica and the zoo nearby. The open space is good for small figures against big shapes. In the park, look for dog walkers: Walker calls Budapest a dog city. Midday light here is harsh, so come late afternoon.