Street Photography in Rio de Janeiro

The Selaron steps climb from Lapa toward Santa Teresa, covered in more than 2,000 tiles collected by the artist Jorge Selaron. By mid morning they are full of people posing, which is its own subject: selfies and tour groups against the color. For a cleaner frame, come very early. I'd stand low at the bottom with a wide lens and wait for one figure on the stairs. The upper end of the steps meets residential streets, so do not wander further up with a camera out.

The white arches of the old aqueduct stand over Lapa, the center of Rio's nightlife. Shawn Eastman lists Lapa for its historic architecture and graffiti, and the street art here is political and loud. Late afternoon light is good on the arches. On Friday and Saturday nights, the streets under them fill with bars and street music, which is great for slow shutter work and faces lit by stalls. Crowds are also where pickpockets work, so carry the smallest camera you own on a strap.

Santa Teresa is a hilltop neighborhood of old mansions and steep cobbled streets with views over the bay. The yellow tram, the bonde, climbs here from Centro. Largo dos Guimaraes is the small square where the tram passes cafes and bars. On weekends, artisans set up along the streets, according to Rio and Learn. Morning light on the facades is good. A frame with the tram rounding a corner and passengers at the open side is the classic. Some streets are quiet and isolated, so stick to the main tram route.

Saara is a dense grid of narrow streets in Centro packed with small shops selling fabric, toys, costumes and party goods. It is where ordinary Cariocas shop, and before Carnival it is overflowing. Weekday daytime is the time. Shade and colored awnings make soft light over the crowd. Look for vendors calling out prices and shoppers loaded with bags. It is crowded, so keep a hand on your camera and move with the flow. Most shops close on Sundays and Centro empties out, which makes it feel less safe.

Pedra do Sal is a rock and square in the Saude district, known as Little Africa, and called the birthplace of samba. On Monday and Friday nights from about 19:00, musicians sit around a table and play while hundreds of people sing along. Plan Rio says Monday is more local and traditional, Friday bigger and rowdier. The musicians lit from above with a ring of faces around them is the picture. Plan Rio also advises leaving cameras at home, so bring only a phone or a very small camera, and use ride hailing to leave.

Copacabana is the long beach with the black and white wave pattern promenade. Shawn Eastman suggests shooting beach football and vendors carrying their goods. Early morning brings older locals exercising and fishermen at the Posto 6 end. Late afternoon brings football games. Shoot low with the players against the sea. Never leave your bag on the sand, and do not take expensive gear to the beach on busy weekends.

Arpoador is the rock between Copacabana and Ipanema where locals and visitors gather to watch the sunset. When the sun drops toward the Dois Irmaos peaks, the crowd often applauds. Peter Orsel used a telephoto zoom here to compress the beach and mountains. For street pictures, turn around: silhouettes on the rock against the orange sky, surfers walking in with boards. Arrive an hour early. Leaving after sunset, walk out with the crowd, not alone along the rocks.