Street Photography in Buenos Aires

San Telmo is the oldest neighborhood in Buenos Aires, with colonial and nineteenth century buildings along cobbled streets. On Sundays a huge street fair runs along Defensa to Plaza Dorrego, with antique stalls and tango dancers in the square. Ugo Cei prefers weekdays, when the lanes are quiet and atmospheric. I'd do both. On Sunday, work the crowd and the dancers. On a weekday afternoon, look for low light down the narrow streets and a single figure crossing. Tango couples in the plaza perform for tips, so put money in the hat if you photograph them.

The San Telmo market opened in 1897 under an iron and glass roof. Today it mixes old fruit and butcher stalls with food counters and antique sellers. Nicholas Tinelli recommends it for its food stands and antique shops. The roof gives soft, even light, good for faces and hands at work. Look for an old stallholder among his objects, framed by the ironwork. Ask before close portraits. Sellers are working, and many are open to a chat first, especially if you buy something.

Caminito is a short street of brightly painted tin and wood houses in La Boca, the old port district. It is very touristy, with dancers and figures posing for paid photos. Ugo Cei found the warm evening light on the facades magical and the area less touristy just outside Caminito. Nicholas Tinelli warns it is not the safest area and advises staying in the tourist zone. I'd come by day, shoot the color and the people looking at it, and leave before dark. Keep the camera strapped to you.

Microcentro is the business district east of Avenida 9 de Julio, and Florida is its long pedestrian shopping street. Ugo Cei calls it a perfect environment for street photography. In late afternoon, low sun cuts between the tall buildings and throws strips of light across office workers heading home. Stand at a corner where a shaft of sun hits the pavement and wait for someone to walk into it. Money changers call out on Florida. It is crowded, so keep a hand on your gear.

Plaza de Mayo faces the pink Casa Rosada, the presidential palace, and it is where Argentines come to protest and celebrate. The Mothers of Plaza de Mayo, whose children disappeared under the dictatorship, have traditionally marched around the square on Thursday afternoons. Treat that with respect: photograph from a distance, and ask before a close portrait. On other days, look for office workers and protest banners against the palace. Police guard the building, so do not photograph security staff up close.

Recoleta Cemetery is a city of marble tombs and statues along narrow lanes, where Eva Peron is buried. Ugo Cei found it full of photo opportunities despite the tourist crowds, especially light and reflections in the glass doors of the tombs. Late afternoon puts long shadows down the lanes. Use visitors as small figures against the monuments, or shoot a reflection that layers a passerby over a tomb interior. There is an entrance fee for foreigners. It is a cemetery, so give mourners space.

Buenos Aires' Chinatown is a few blocks on Arribenos in Belgrano, marked by a Chinese arch. Nicholas Tinelli points to its fusion of Asian and Latin culture and the street art near the main street. Weekends are busiest, with shoppers at grocery stores and food stalls. Signs and lanterns over packed shop fronts make layered backgrounds. It is compact, so an hour is enough. Shopkeepers are busy; ask before photographing inside stores.