Street Photography in Cairo

Khan el-Khalili is the great bazaar of Islamic Cairo, founded in the fourteenth century. The main lanes sell souvenirs to tourists, but locals still come for gold and copper, and the side lanes get more local the further you walk. f.d. walker liked the edges best. Late afternoon into the evening is the time, when lanterns switch on and the lanes glow orange. Frame a coppersmith at work in his doorway, lit by a bare bulb, and ask him first. Expect touts. If a stranger offers to show you a great photo spot, it will end with a request for money.

Al-Muizz is the main street of medieval Cairo, running north from the bazaar past Fatimid and Mamluk mosques and madrasas. The northern stretch is pedestrian and floodlit after sunset, when families stroll and the carved stone glows against a blue sky. That blue hour is the moment. Stand where the street narrows and use the lit facades as a stage for passing figures. A fast lens helps. Mosques are places of worship: dress modestly and do not photograph people praying.

Bab Zuweila is one of the old gates of the Fatimid city, at the south end of the Al-Muizz route. Around and beyond it, Darb al-Ahmar is a working neighborhood, not a museum. Tentmakers and carpenters work in open shops, and far fewer tourists pass through. Morning is good, when bread is being delivered and shops open. I'd walk slowly and let the conversation come before the camera. Many craftsmen will agree to a portrait. This is a residential area, so keep the lens out of homes and away from children.

Al-Azhar Park is a large landscaped park built on a former rubbish mound, looking over the domes and minarets of Islamic Cairo. f.d. walker called it one of the most memorable parks he has photographed anywhere, and on weekends it fills with local families. Go in the late afternoon and stay for sunset, when couples line the walls and the city turns gold below. Silhouettes against the skyline are the easy picture. There is an entrance fee. Families here are relaxed but private, so ask before photographing anyone recognizable, and leave children out of the frame.

Downtown Cairo was built in the nineteenth century in a European style, with wide streets and grand facades that have faded into a look unique to the city. Today it is the commercial heart: crowded pavements and old cafes busy late into the night. f.d. walker stayed here and found it full of character. Evening is the best time, with shop lights on the crowds. Look for a figure framed by old balconies and signs. Stay well away from Tahrir Square security and any government building, and do not photograph police.

The Qasr al-Nil Bridge crosses from Tahrir to Gezira Island, guarded by stone lions at each end. At sunset it becomes a promenade: couples lean on the rails while feluccas move on the Nile below. The low sun from the west backlights people on the bridge, so shoot silhouettes against the water. The Corniche on either bank is quieter. Security posts are common along the river and near hotels and embassies, so keep your lens pointed at the river and the crowd, not at officials.

Coptic Cairo is the oldest part of the city, home to the Hanging Church and some of the oldest churches in Egypt, plus a historic synagogue and mosque nearby. Tourists stay around the main sights. f.d. walker recommends walking into the surrounding streets, where narrow alleys hold vendors and daily life. Morning light in the lanes is good. Photography rules inside churches vary, so look for signs and ask. There is heavy security around the religious sites, which is another reason to keep people small in the frame near the entrances.

The City of the Dead is a vast historic cemetery east of the old city where many families live and work among the tombs. The low buildings let in plenty of light, and f.d. walker found it quieter and less bleak than people imagine. It is still a poor residential area. Go in daylight, ideally with a local contact or guide, and treat it as someone's neighborhood. Photograph the architecture and the Mamluk domes freely. For people, ask first and accept a no. Do not photograph children.