Street Photography in Istanbul

This is where I would start. The bridge carries fishermen and tea sellers, and the Eminönü waterfront adds ferry crowds and fish sandwich boats. Walker calls it one of the best spots for light in the city, because the area is wide open to the sea. His trick: stand by the pedestrian tunnels under the bridge and catch people stepping out of the dark into bright sun. Expose for the highlights so faces hold detail and the tunnel goes black. Late afternoon to sunset is best. Matt also recommends the squares around the ferry terminals. Caution: fishing lines swing back over the walkway, so watch where you stand.

Istiklal is the long pedestrian street running from Taksim down toward Galata. It is packed at almost any hour, and the old red tram rolls through the middle. That density is both the draw and the problem. Backgrounds get messy fast, so look for simple ones: a plain wall or the side of the tram. Then wait for a single face to separate from the crowd. The side streets of Cihangir, just below, are full of cats and quieter cafe scenes. Caution: Tarlabaşı, just north of Istiklal, has drug activity, and locals advise visitors to stay out.

Taksim is the center of modern Istanbul. The main metro station is here, along with the Republic Monument, where people meet and take selfies. Walker jokes it may have the highest selfie stick density on earth, which gives you an easy theme. Gezi Park sits above the square and is a quiet place to watch the crowd below. The square is big and not pretty, so work tight: faces around the monument, or people crossing the open paving in long shadows early and late in the day. Caution: large protests and celebrations happen here, often on weekends. Police can use tear gas, so leave if a demonstration starts.

Through the underpass from Eminönü you reach the square in front of the New Mosque (Yeni Cami) and the Spice Bazaar. Walker likes it because it is always full of life and good light. It is also the most popular place to feed pigeons, so wait for a burst of birds around someone and shoot at a fast shutter speed, 1/1000 or more. The streets behind the Spice Bazaar are outdoor markets full of porters and wholesale shoppers. Caution: dress modestly and avoid prayer times if you enter the mosque. Never use flash inside.

The Grand Bazaar is a covered market of vaulted lanes lit by skylights and shop lamps. That light is the reason to come. Beams fall through the roof openings and give you pools of light to place a merchant or shopper in. Raise your ISO and expose for the bright patches. Matt's tip is to skip the touristy central section and head for the outer lanes and workshops, where the scenes are more real and often funny. Caution: the bazaar is closed on Sundays, and shopkeepers may ask you to buy or move on, so a friendly word goes a long way.

Balat and the Fatih neighborhoods above it feel like old Istanbul: colorful houses and people who live on their doorsteps. Walker describes kids playing in the street and women knitting on the steps. Balat is quiet in the morning, as Roman Fox notes, before the Instagram crowd arrives. The Golden Horn park below fills with barbecues and families on Sundays. On Wednesdays, the Çarşamba market in Fatih is worth the detour. Use the painted walls as backgrounds and wait for a local to pass. Caution: this is a conservative area, so be more careful and ask before close portraits.

Kadıköy is the busiest district on the Asian side and much less touristy than the old city. From the ferry landing, walk straight into the market streets full of fishmongers and cafes, or turn right along the Moda waterfront. Moda's long seaside park draws everyone at sunset, from students to families, and the sun sets over the water toward the old city. Put people in silhouette against the sea. The market lanes are good for close, layered frames. Caution: the Moda park gets very busy on warm weekend evenings, so arrive before sunset to find your spot.

Taking the ferry is as normal as taking the metro here, and it is some of the best shooting in the city. Matt spent more time on the ferries than he planned and preferred the older boats. Walk the open decks and the cabin. Commuters sit inside with tea, while the outside rails give you people against the water and gulls. Morning and late afternoon crossings have the best side light through the windows. Use a fast shutter for the birds. Buy an Istanbulkart transit card, which Fox recommends and which works on ferries. Caution: decks get slippery in rain and the upper rails are windy in winter.