Street Photography in Seoul

Euljiro is a maze of small metal and printing workshops, with hip bars and cafes hidden among them. By day, men work in open workshops and carry loads on hand carts. At night the alleys around exit 11 of Euljiro 3-ga station fill with neon: Steve Roe says to follow the road about 100 meters from the exit, then turn into the alley on your left. Nogari Alley near the station packs with office workers drinking beer at plastic tables. Composition idea: a worker's silhouette against a neon sign. Caution: workshops are workplaces, so ask before shooting inside.

Sewoon Arcade is a long 1960s electronics complex with elevated walkways, running between Jongno and Euljiro. From the walkways you look down on streets and repair shops, and from the rooftop you see the old downtown. Jongno around it is old-school Seoul, with older men in hats drinking at pojangmacha tent bars. Afternoon light across the walkways is best, and the area gets moody after dark. Composition idea: a lone figure on the walkway framed by electronic signs. Caution: some shopkeepers do not like cameras pointed into their stalls.

Gwangjang is one of Seoul's oldest markets, famous for its food alley, where vendors fry mung bean pancakes and serve gimbap to diners on benches. It is busiest in the evening after work. The overhead lights and steam make for warm, moody frames. Stand at a junction of the food aisles and shoot along the counters. Composition idea: a cook flipping pancakes with steam lit from behind. Caution: vendors are busy and some dislike being photographed without buying, so order something first and ask.

Myeongdong is Seoul's main shopping district for visitors, packed with cosmetics shops and, in the evening, street food carts down the middle of the lanes. Come after 6 pm when the carts are out. Stand on a slight rise or at a lane junction to shoot the crowd flowing through, or shoot tight on a cart lit by its own bulbs. Composition idea: a vendor's hands and the steam, with the crowd blurred behind. Caution: it is very crowded, so watch your bag and keep moving.

Dongdaemun mixes old and new. The Dongdaemun Design Plaza, Zaha Hadid's curved silver building, looks good day and night, and its long, clean curves make a strong minimal backdrop for single figures. Around it are wholesale fashion malls and markets that work late into the night, with delivery riders and porters moving goods. Come at blue hour when the DDP's lights come on. Composition idea: a small figure walking along the curved wall with nothing else in the frame. Caution: the wholesale lanes are working areas, so do not block carts.

Hongdae, the area around Hongik University, is Seoul's youth and nightlife district. Buskers and dance crews perform in the streets in the evening, especially on weekends. It is lively and full of neon, though more spread out than downtown. Nearby Sinchon has some of Steve Roe's favorite shots. Come on a Friday or Saturday evening. Stand at the edge of a busking crowd and shoot the audience as well as the performer. Composition idea: a dancer lit by phone screens held up by the crowd. Caution: many people here are young, so be careful before publishing faces.

Namdaemun is the oldest and largest traditional market in Seoul, near the old south gate. It is a daytime market, busiest in the morning, with vendors selling clothing and kitchenware, and food stalls in narrow alleys. Many shops close on Sundays. Stand where a narrow food alley meets the main lane and shoot along it. Composition idea: an older vendor working under a hanging lamp in a dim alley. Caution: older vendors may wave off a camera, so smile and move on if they do.