Street Photography in Madrid

Puerta del Sol is Madrid's central square and the point from which the city's radial streets spread out. Alfonso Calero, writing for Australian Photography, uses it as the starting point for his photo walks. It is busy all day with people meeting and pouring out of the metro. The open square gives you hard sun and long shadows in the morning and late afternoon. Try standing at the metro exit and catching people as they step into the light. Pickpockets work the crowds here, so keep your bag in front.

Gran Vía is the grand boulevard of theatres and shops that starts at the Metrópolis Building on Calle de Alcalá. Chasing Hippoz notes that golden hour turns its stone facades amber, and that the lit marquees and traffic read well after dark. For street work, the wide pavements carry a steady flow of shoppers and theatregoers. Use a short telephoto from the middle of the street to compress walkers against the facades. At night, look for faces lit by shop windows. Crossings are busy, so shoot from the pavement.

Plaza Mayor is the enclosed, arcaded square at the heart of old Madrid, and Calero calls it one of the city's most vibrant. The arcades give you deep shade framing a bright, open square, which is ideal for silhouettes. Stand under an arch in the late afternoon and wait for a figure to cross the sunlit cobbles. The square fills with visitors and cafe tables, so there is always movement. Blue hour works well too, when the lamps come on. Keep an eye on your valuables near the busy cafes.

El Rastro is Madrid's open-air flea market, held on Sundays and public holidays from Plaza de Cascorro down the steep Ribera de Curtidores. Tourism Madrid says to arrive before 11:00 to avoid the crowds, or come at midday for the atmosphere and stay until closing around 15:00. Chasing Hippoz calls it one of the best street photography environments in the city. Shoot down the slope for a sea of heads and awnings. Work close with a wide lens around the stalls, and ask before portraits. It is packed, so carry little and watch your pockets.

La Latina is the old quarter just west of the Rastro, and Calle de la Cava Baja is its tapas street. Chasing Hippoz describes locals moving from bar to bar here on Sunday afternoons after the market closes. The street is narrow, so the light is soft and the bar doorways glow as the day ends. Stand across from a busy doorway and wait for gestures at the bar. Weekday afternoons are much quieter, as Calero notes. Stay out of the way of waiters, and ask before shooting inside a bar.

Lavapiés is a steep, multicultural barrio east of the Rastro, with a mix of old Madrid residents and newer communities from across the world. Tourism Madrid places El Rastro where La Latina meets Lavapiés, so the two are easy to combine. Look for daily life around Plaza de Lavapiés and street art on the side walls. The slopes give you strong diagonals. Late afternoon light runs down the streets. This is a residential area, so work slowly and don't shoot into homes. Some residents are wary of cameras; respect a no.

Malasaña is the bohemian neighbourhood north of Gran Vía, centred on Plaza del Dos de Mayo. Chasing Hippoz recommends it for street photography and murals, and suggests a smaller, less conspicuous camera there. The square fills with families in the day and terraces at night. Pair people with the painted walls, or work the narrow streets as the light drops. Evening is the best time. The area gets loud late on weekends, and people on terraces may not want to be photographed, so read the table before you raise the camera.

El Retiro is the city's great park, big enough that Calero warns you might get lost. Chasing Hippoz arrived at 6:30 and found only joggers and an old man feeding pigeons near the Palacio de Cristal, the glass pavilion. That early hour is the one I'd target for quiet street frames: lone figures in low orange light. Weekends bring families and rowers on the lake. Use the pavilion's glass for reflections with people moving past. The park is large, so plan a route and bring water in summer.