Street Photography in Dhaka

Sadarghat is the river terminal of Dhaka on the Buriganga. Forrest Walker calls it the busiest and most interesting area in the city, with porters unloading produce and boats of every size. Big passenger launches leave every evening for cities across the delta. Arrive in the early morning or late afternoon. A small wooden boat across the river costs very little and gives you the Old Dhaka waterfront in one view, according to A Walk in the World. At sunset, shoot the launches in silhouette from the water. The docks are very crowded, so keep your bag in front.

Shankhari Bazar is a single lane, barely three meters wide, where Hindu families have made conch shell bangles for centuries. The buildings lean close overhead, so the sky is a thin strip. Workshops open onto the street, and you can photograph artisans cutting and polishing at their benches. A Walk in the World suggests arriving before 10:00, before the crowds build. Shoot up the lane to show the compression, then step close for hands at work. Ask before portraits. Many shops also hold small shrines, so be respectful.

Tara Masjid is a small 19th century mosque covered in thousands of blue stars made from broken Chinese porcelain. A Walk in the World suggests the afternoon, when western light hits the facade, and timing your visit between prayers. The people are what make it street photography: men arriving for prayer and kids in the courtyard. Frame a figure against the star patterns. Remove your shoes and wait outside during prayer. Ask before photographing anyone at worship.

Chawk Bazar is one of the oldest markets in Dhaka, a working wholesale food market all year. During Ramadan it becomes the city's great iftar market. A Walk in the World describes hundreds of stalls from about 3 pm until sunset, with steam from biryani pots and smoke from kebab grills lit by low sun. Come at 3:30 and stay until the call to prayer. Shoot into the light to catch the steam. Crowds are intense, so keep gear tight and be patient. Ramadan moves about 11 days earlier each year.

Across the Buriganga in Keraniganj, workers build and break down ships by hand. Forrest Walker counts it among his favorite spots in Dhaka, with welding torches and hammers everywhere and colorful hulls that throw shadow and color in sunlight. He reached it by rowboat. The yards are spread along the river, so go with a local guide or photographer who knows where work is happening. Midday sun gives strong shadows on the hulls. This is a dangerous workplace. Watch where you walk and stay clear of cutting and lifting.

Karwan Bazar is one of the largest wholesale markets in South Asia. Trading starts around midnight and runs until about 8:30 am, according to local photographers quoted by Street Photography Gallery, so go at dawn. Trucks unload produce, porters carry baskets on their heads and buyers haggle under bare bulbs. Nearby, the train tracks are lined with stalls and life. Use a wide lens and stay close. The ground is wet and messy. Mustafa Habib Chowdhury warns to watch out for dealers on the way in and out.

Kamalapur is the main railway station in Bangladesh, designed by American architect Robert Boughey. Its shell shaped roof gives shelter, which Forrest Walker notes makes it a good spot when rain stops work elsewhere. Local street photographers like it for the green trains, and for passengers leaning out of the windows. Platforms give you side light from the open edges. Frame a face in a train window. Mornings and late afternoons are busiest. Stay back from the platform edge when trains move.

The University of Dhaka is the oldest university in Bangladesh and has a long role in the country's politics. Walker found it a popular hangout for young people, getting busier as the day cools. Tea stalls and students debating give you plenty of subjects. Nearby Ramna Park has cricket games and walkers. I'd come in the late afternoon. It is also a center of protest, so if a rally forms, put the camera away and leave. Official advice is to avoid all demonstrations.