Street Photography in Mexico City

Alameda Central was F.D. Walker's favorite park in the city for the sheer variety of life in it. It borders the Palacio de Bellas Artes, and the streets around it are some of the busiest in Centro. Alex Coghe suggests layered scenes of vendors and pedestrians, and religious symbols against daily life. Come in the late afternoon when the trees break the light into patches. Sit on a bench facing a path and let people walk through the light. After dark, some streets empty quickly, so head out while it's busy.

Avenida Madero is a pedestrian street that runs from the Torre Latinoamericana to the Zócalo, one of the biggest public squares in the world. Madero is a river of people all day, with organ grinders and window shoppers. The Zócalo hosts concerts and protests, so check what's on. F.D. Walker found the square itself touristy and preferred the streets around it. Stand at the Zócalo end of Madero in the late afternoon and shoot back up the street as the light comes in low. Pickpockets work the crowds here in teams, so keep your phone and wallet in front pockets.

Plaza Garibaldi is where mariachi bands in full charro suits wait to be hired, and it comes alive at night. F.D. Walker liked it for its edge and its mariachi atmosphere. You'll find musicians negotiating with customers and playing in circles around them. Come from dusk to about 22:00, and use the plaza lights and bar signs as your light source. A composition idea: shoot a band from behind, with the customers' faces lit in front of them. Musicians expect to be paid for a song, not for a candid, but ask before a posed portrait. Take a rideshare in and out at night.

La Merced is one of the largest markets in the city, a sprawl of halls and street stalls selling produce and just about everything else. Alex Coghe rates the Merced and Tepito edges as high risk: visually incredible but ethically complex, with pickpocketing in the crowds. Go in the morning, when trade is heaviest and the light is soft, and go with a local or a photo guide if it's your first time. Work the aisles where daylight falls through gaps in the roof. Ask before close portraits of vendors, and carry only what you need.

Roma and Condesa are the calm side of the city: tree-lined streets, Art Deco buildings, cafés and parks. Alex Coghe rates them low risk and suggests them as a base where you can slow down and observe. Parque México is the anchor, with dog walkers leading packs of dogs and people exercising. Come in the morning or late afternoon, when the jacarandas and ficus trees filter the light. It is a good place for longer lenses and patience. Frame a figure under the arches of the park's paths. The scene here is more expat than elsewhere, so mix it with Centro for balance.

Coyoacán is a colonial neighborhood in the south, with two plazas and the Frida Kahlo museum. Trovatten's photo guide notes it is always packed with people enjoying their free time, which makes it good for street portraits of strangers. Weekends are best, when families, balloon sellers, churro stands and street performers fill the Jardín Centenario. The light is softest in the late afternoon. Stand near the coyote fountain and wait for kids to climb it. Families are the main subject here, so ask a parent before photographing a child up close. The Metro and rideshares both reach it in 30 to 45 minutes from Centro.

Mexico City's Chinatown is tiny, about two blocks, centered on the pedestrian Calle Dolores. Half Half Travel points out that it's not very Chinese anymore, but the street is hung with colored umbrellas and lanterns, which makes it a color playground. Come at midday, when the canopy overhead throws colored light and shade onto the people below, or at dusk when the lanterns glow. Stand at one end and shoot down the street, with the canopy as a frame at the top of the picture. It is short and busy, so do a few passes and move on.

Reforma is the city's grand avenue, lined with monuments and glass towers. On Sunday mornings from 8:00 to 14:00, it closes to cars for Muévete en Bici, and thousands of cyclists and skaters take over. It is also the usual route for marches heading to the Zócalo. Stand on a median near the Ángel de la Independencia and pan with the cyclists at 1/30 s. On march days, keep to the edges and stay aware. Protests are usually peaceful, but police lines can form quickly. Avoid pointing your camera at the police.