Street Photography in Beijing

Gulou means Drum Tower, and the square between the Drum and Bell Towers is the heart of the old north side. Bejan Siavoshy calls the area the perfect storm for photographers new to Beijing: old lanes, quirky shops, bars and people with more interesting style than the malls. I'd come in the late afternoon, when low sun rakes across the gray brick. Stand at the edge of the square and use the tower as a backdrop for kids and old men passing on bikes. Then walk the lanes east and west. Rickshaw drivers here often overcharge visitors, so walk.

Nanluoguxiang is the best known hutong street, and in the afternoon it is shoulder to shoulder with domestic tourists. That crowd is a subject in itself: snack stalls and selfies, with couples in rented costume. The real reward is the side alleys that branch off it, where residents sit outside their courtyard gates. The Barrettish photo set from 2019 includes a woman at an open fire food cart near Luogu Lane at night. Go early morning for residents, or after dark for stall light. Frame a doorway with a figure inside it. Remember these are homes, so don't shoot into open courtyards.

Shichahai is a chain of three lakes that was once part of an imperial garden. Houhai is the largest. The shore path draws walkers, anglers, swimmers and bar crowds at night. In winter the lakes freeze and people skate on them, which gives you figures scattered across a white field. Morning light is soft on the water and the willows. Walk the north shore and shoot back across the lake toward the silhouettes on the far bank. The bar strip is loud at night and touts will try to pull you inside.

Jingshan is the hill directly behind the Forbidden City, built from the earth dug out for its moat. The top gives the classic view over the palace roofs, and Bejan Siavoshy warns you will share it with tripods at most hours. For street work, stay lower. The paths and pavilions fill with morning exercise groups and singers, with card players in the pavilions. Go early, from opening, when the old people are out. Frame a singer against the red walls or yellow tiles. There is an entry fee, so bring your passport and a payment app.

Temple of Heaven Park is famous for its morning activities. Visions of Travel describes getting there around 5 or 6 am to find an outdoor gym by the east entrance, group dancing, tai chi, badminton, Chinese opera and folk music jams. This is the best place in Beijing to photograph people moving. Arrive at opening and walk in from the east gate. The long covered corridor is where many groups gather, and its columns give you frames within the frame. Try a slow shutter on the dancers. By mid-morning the tour groups arrive and the locals drift home.

Niujie is Beijing's largest Muslim neighborhood and home to the city's oldest mosque. Bejan Siavoshy describes communist era apartment blocks mixed with halal butchers and bakeries, and calls the people here extremely friendly. It sees few foreign visitors, which is exactly why I'd go. Late morning is good for the food shops, when steam and flour dust catch the light. Shoot the counters from the doorway, then ask for portraits. Dress modestly, and ask permission before photographing inside the mosque grounds.

Panjiayuan is a sprawling flea market with hundreds of sellers of old books, jade, posters and curios. Bejan Siavoshy notes that many of the antiques are newer than the vendors claim, so haggle hard if you buy. For photography the sellers are the draw: faces bent over magnifying glasses, hands on bronze, piles of objects everywhere. Weekend mornings are busiest. A short telephoto lets you catch the buying and selling from a few meters away. Some vendors dislike cameras pointed at their stock, so buy something small or ask first.

Yonghegong, the Lama Temple, is a working Tibetan Buddhist temple where worshippers bow with fistfuls of incense. Smoke and backlight make this the place for atmospheric frames, best on weekdays when it is quieter. Photography inside the main halls is generally not allowed, so work the courtyards. Across the road, Wudaoying Hutong has cafes and vintage shops that draw a younger crowd. It is the contrast shot: a monk or pilgrim one minute, fashion kids the next. I'd come early afternoon, when the courtyards have light and shadow.