Street Photography in Riga

Riga Central Market fills five huge pavilions that began life as German Zeppelin hangars. F. D. Walker, who shot Riga for his 100 City Project, puts it in his top ten markets anywhere: lots of space and good light, and characters from every part of the city, including some rougher corners. He went back almost every day. Mornings are busiest, and it thins out by mid-afternoon. Inside, stand at the end of an aisle and let shoppers and sellers stack up under the hangar roof. Outside, Beat Dietsch of Lights and Bytes finds the streets around the halls even better, with deliveries and vendors packing up. Walker notes you may get a few no's here, so ask when you're close.

The Old Town is where most visitors spend their time, with Dome Square and the cathedral at its heart. Walker finds it charming but touristy, and says it doesn't stand out if you've seen many old towns. The way to make it work is to go early, before the tour groups, or step off the main lanes. Dietsch's tip is to step into courtyards whenever a door or archway is open, for textured walls and quiet cafes. Cafe terraces on Dome Square give you people watching in summer. Early morning light in the narrow streets is soft and clean. Keep your bag closed in the crowds.

The Moscow District (Maskavas Forštate) was Walker's favourite part of Riga. Starting behind the Central Market, it runs southeast along Maskavas iela and the tram lines, with cobbled streets and 19th century wooden houses, many of them run down. He calls it neglected and quiet in places, with a real edge, but says he walked all of it alone and never felt unsafe. Dietsch agrees it shows a rougher, more honest Riga, and says overcast light suits it. Start around Katoļu iela and the tram stop, and look for figures passing the big wooden windows. Walker mentions a few drunks and some dealing in parts, so be discreet with your camera.

Alberta iela is Riga's most famous Art Nouveau street, in a city with the highest concentration of the style in the world, according to Walker. Most visitors shoot the facades straight on and leave. Dietsch suggests looking for details instead: faces above windows and balconies in shadow, with a short telephoto to isolate them. Early morning or late afternoon gives the best contrast on the ornate walls. For street photography, wait for a person to walk under the carved faces and let the scale do the work. The street is short and popular with tour groups at midday, so go early.

The Freedom Monument stands on the boulevard between the Old Town and the Central District, with the Bastion Hill park and the city canal around it. Walker says it is the most popular gathering spot in the city, with crowds walking between the monument and the Laima Clock. The canal paths give you locals strolling and parents with prams, which Walker noticed everywhere in Riga's parks. Shoot along the canal in late afternoon light, with the water and trees as a frame. Treat the monument itself with respect, since it is a national symbol.

Miera iela, which means Peace Street, is known as Riga's hipster street, according to Walker, with art galleries and artsy cafes, boutique shops and bars. It has older wooden buildings and cobbles mixed with newer shopfronts, and a younger local crowd than the centre. The old Laima chocolate factory sits along it. Afternoons and evenings are best, when people sit outside the cafes. Look for trams passing, since Dietsch notes they work as a visual element, and motion blur works well with them. It is a quieter street, so a small camera helps you blend in.

Kalnciema Quarter is a restored block of 19th century wooden buildings across the river, and it runs Riga's best farmers' market on Saturday mornings, according to Like a Local. Local producers sell bread and honey, and there are concerts through the year. The wooden courtyards are the other reason to come, since most visitors never cross the river to see them. Arrive in the morning for the market crowd, and use the old wooden walls as a warm, textured background. Outside Saturday it is quiet, so plan for that day. It is a tram ride or a 20 minute walk from the centre.